| 00:00 | wait, it's the same set of . Wave energy and wave energy in |
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| 00:08 | is functional weight velocity wind duration and fetch fetch being the area over which |
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| 00:16 | of area over which the wind is . So we can look at the |
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| 00:24 | in uh wave height. This we can talk about title hide |
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| 00:32 | Uh here we tend to use uh term sometimes called significant waves are like |
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| 00:39 | . 3% greatest waves of the reality this whole spectrum wave height for each |
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| 00:45 | of climate. But this is in from less than eight, 12 to |
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| 00:54 | , 16, 2013, 20 ft us. A storm tradition. And |
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| 01:01 | notice that the darker areas stimulate up northern there is in southern more or |
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| 01:11 | around the 40 plus degree up parallel sometimes called the roaring 40s because this |
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| 01:21 | the area where you get a lot uh and we can subdivide it into |
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| 01:30 | of a wave environments. Stormy Well, when strong trade uh and |
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| 01:42 | I'm not going to get into the there. Clearly storm is in the |
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| 01:46 | place with notice those are the areas circle. Uh they tend to have |
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| 01:53 | funny pattern and if you look at policy, that's basically tropical cycling uh |
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| 02:02 | wave climate. And if you look that storm waves again, take a |
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| 02:07 | at the wind. Oh, this closer the lines are hi under with |
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| 02:16 | is the jet stream. Uh So you're looking at beach, are you |
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| 02:24 | problems in determining storm wave conditions? , uh wave energy is a function |
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| 02:32 | the sport height. I give press trump. And one of them to |
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| 02:38 | in mind is that the wave energy transferred from the atmosphere of the high |
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| 02:44 | at the water surface. And because molecular dissipation viscosity of that energy gets |
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| 02:53 | and less with distance. Until at point there is minimal effect of the |
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| 03:02 | below certain death. And that death called the wave base. Low way |
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| 03:08 | . You have negligible impact on your way. The way base is basically |
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| 03:17 | of the wavelength. So if we the wavelength we can predict what the |
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| 03:22 | they will be. Yeah. Now we look at that orbital motion is |
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| 03:28 | order waves um we could look at the lips the crust is moving |
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| 03:46 | No doesn't like thing and the trough moving backwards. So the way we |
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| 03:57 | express that is this would be and you like and this would be flood |
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| 04:11 | you like now what someday? I'm buy opinion. But this is basically |
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| 04:19 | am. Yeah, as long as is a sign soil way net forward |
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| 04:28 | is maximum firing motion is equivalent to maximum. Okay, single. So |
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| 04:36 | no net motion. Said things change the wave enters water that's more shallow |
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| 04:49 | we base. And so it goes a deep which is basically can't feel |
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| 04:58 | water to what is eventually shallow waterway their significant draft by the reaction of |
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| 05:06 | body with that motion. Sure. as we go the deeper or deep |
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| 05:20 | internal shadow, we're going to see and more interaction with that is of |
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| 05:26 | what we're interested in is are those that allow for them. Re |
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| 05:35 | transportation, depositions. Now this is complicated slide. Exactly. That's important |
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| 05:42 | shoot. So one of the things have to wait things. Yeah, |
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| 05:48 | was a way base the song that's general functional issues all of those but |
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| 06:00 | typical non storm time and it's what typical song. So clearly um here |
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| 06:12 | going to have no set of emotion farewell. But a lot of potential |
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| 06:18 | missions during storms. A couple of things. We actually have the water |
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| 06:29 | price and it's not gonna be a indigenes, but that is the wave |
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| 06:38 | . We are literally piling water onto ship. That's the storm search. |
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| 06:45 | see that hurricanes is example here, , that storm surge sets up a |
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| 06:53 | radio that creates a seaward directive So in this zone here during |
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| 07:04 | we have combined flow, we have back and forth motion of the ways |
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| 07:11 | propose on the largely offshore motion. the current wave said search set. |
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| 07:26 | we have a combined follow which actually off show emotion and the sentiment that |
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| 07:34 | re suspended in this can actually be farther offshore. Low storm is a |
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| 07:46 | . So we can get deposition seven in the or career but we're starting |
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| 07:55 | under storms because of these combined Yeah this so this just focuses on |
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| 08:07 | storm uh induced curls. Yeah one that you sent notices to being deflected |
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| 08:19 | provide that is a jesus trophic the so it's not going to be |
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| 08:29 | Exactly offshore for all debts it will a torch. But there's another process |
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| 08:40 | which we get water from flooding the and thats Rickards. So we also |
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| 08:49 | these records which basically are working long term water is being finding back really |
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| 09:01 | . Okay let's go. So we're to look at the bottom currents as |
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| 09:07 | storm generated ways on some generated I'm going to look at the respondents |
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| 09:15 | about process is closer to the beach that Way It's one more shallow or |
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| 09:32 | in are reflected. Higher. Higher it was interfacing higher and higher up |
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| 09:40 | to the maximum or the loss of , maximum velocity of bottoms increase. |
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| 09:49 | we're getting increasing what you hear and we get the services. one thing |
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| 09:56 | happening to decrease way pipes see and wavelengths this way there. So we're |
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| 10:10 | secret to the great breaker zone and it serves some slush. Look at |
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| 10:17 | of these sounds. Think about the track that you would expect from these |
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| 10:25 | and their resulting center infrastructures but if just think about increasing um actual second |
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| 10:32 | again you max being the maximum horizontal . Uh huh You get something like |
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| 10:44 | now this is a book, not flume study because flumes tend to give |
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| 10:49 | uh uni directional flow. It's kind shaker study. It would take a |
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| 10:55 | of sand, remember back back and and they can determine the maximum |
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| 11:02 | no motion brush. So cripples play bit. Yeah, it makes the |
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| 11:17 | difference so that the shape of the again fairly steve but get flattered, |
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| 11:27 | , clean it now without looking at notes. Tell me No, this |
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| 11:38 | one little meters. What is different this step phase background in the unit |
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| 11:47 | duck in a direction, current, you a hint what's missing. Dude |
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| 12:03 | remember we don't get Yeah, yours now seven Dixon. So all these |
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| 12:13 | we don't exist. You know they sat there here here, they might |
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| 12:27 | do basically. This is all we . So that's a first when I |
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| 12:40 | to explain but I want you remember diagram but also remember to treatment These |
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| 12:49 | 3 rip and then there's some other expansion, remember but I have nothing |
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| 12:57 | do with it. But there is fundamentally different about these for a little |
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| 13:04 | . And so we can literally get routes in a marine set which we |
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| 13:10 | never get in a uni directional points . Yeah, well remember there's third |
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| 13:18 | over here, remember what that It's ferocity, sediment size and |
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| 13:29 | so this is mean sentiment size. the third major area. So it's |
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| 13:41 | lost the green size water moving. , well there are other variables |
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| 13:52 | Well, we should look. One them is the way period. The |
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| 13:57 | period is the time of texting one plane. And so you see the |
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| 14:03 | of the ripples very hanging on the . Is it? Yes. Now |
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| 14:10 | we also see, I needed a , um, that there's a, |
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| 14:16 | , the graduates company that is the velocity. A simple, remember we |
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| 14:25 | about title glossy asymmetry when maybe the could be greater than Yes. So |
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| 14:35 | see the same thing. So that's to happen. So we've got four |
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| 14:39 | determine the bed for there's the green , there's you max, there's period |
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| 14:49 | delta. You. Now, I showed earlier on that in storms we |
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| 14:59 | only have waves but combined kurtz combined . So we might have something that's |
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| 15:07 | between an Oscar territory. Wait, is equal slopes and the current generated |
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| 15:17 | . So let's look at the awesome . So what they tend to do |
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| 15:25 | give us the sharing of waves that deaths in both directions. This is |
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| 15:34 | you kind of a suit would be your, but it's only the milk |
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| 15:42 | the forward being lost in the Now in the case of the super |
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| 15:52 | current case. So the movement in direction of the current is going to |
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| 15:59 | greater. So that's going to give some kind of modified uni directional. |
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| 16:11 | , so you're probably going to hear with something like this for buying |
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| 16:17 | That would be different. And this Tory uh, that is more |
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| 16:27 | perfectly symmetrical ways. Now this would a waiter. This is a combined |
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| 16:41 | this is a free woman character. . Mhm. These are straight |
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| 16:50 | These are two dimensional. So the view is the sets are going to |
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| 16:57 | oh, more or less parallel. what we see here, it's kind |
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| 17:04 | a custody, tough and tough Almost looks like this. In |
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| 17:14 | if you would be given this you might ask yourself how what our |
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| 17:21 | . Okay, literally between way here getting or two additional and the war |
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| 17:33 | questions. So you get to see transition purely symmetrical to transition. So |
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| 17:48 | our Oscar glory written here. More for I think that you're better example |
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| 17:56 | do we have any direction? Mhm , no particular border here showing the |
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| 18:09 | to package. But the idea that be onshore and offshore dominantly or only |
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| 18:25 | shore is typical of the variation you in the way. So here are |
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| 18:31 | raven booster. Well, by what , something like this. Here's another |
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| 18:49 | are this is appeal. So what Henry frank naked. The sand was |
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| 18:57 | that exceptionally. Again the doctor these think what periods of time where it's |
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| 19:10 | the similar gifts in some cases we have a deposition from suspension during |
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| 19:25 | Actually this is typically during the latter stolen where we live with the ripples |
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| 19:35 | are there slightly essence well, very . Get something and stop now ripples |
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| 20:04 | wave induced ripples are clearly useful in well but we really need to put |
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| 20:12 | in in a bigger picture of a trip and we want to define the |
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| 20:20 | . She's track on the basis process on the basis of the product many |
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| 20:28 | creative urgency. Mhm So here we the process to the hospital, the |
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| 20:38 | offshore. To hear a strong wave . It's beginning to amplified Wave to |
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| 20:50 | four more storming. It's a finally at that point you have onshore energy |
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| 21:01 | wait the direction. Sure. Volume four. So we also, |
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| 21:23 | , it's surf zone is also where have a good currency. So on |
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| 21:29 | music. She is, it's coach The type of seven sit again and |
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| 21:41 | constructions different. So we're going to at something like this right before we |
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| 21:49 | that though. I want to look more detail into this hospital. |
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| 21:56 | here it is nothing's happening. It this kind of weaving back and |
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| 22:03 | Yeah, but here we've got estimate flow. We saw that with adults |
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| 22:15 | we can also see in that Wait look which is from wave base |
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| 22:22 | breakers up. Mm Because as that builds up it's no longer an Oscar |
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| 22:30 | no longer sign a soil away. more Stokes way which is more peaked |
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| 22:37 | . Yeah. So it gets more more connected with maximum washing crater |
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| 22:54 | And we could also then walk critical . You've said give me a vision |
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| 23:04 | at which were the only building said because that reverse flow is too |
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| 23:12 | Yeah. Mm. So that difference the you max offshore direction, you |
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| 23:21 | , it's what I was referring to delta. You next. The absolute |
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| 23:28 | of the difference between the following. here here is the case for that's |
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| 23:37 | little agent diameter forward or not Which Yeah. So it's an invasion |
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| 23:56 | . All right. No active at time. So that's what we say |
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| 24:05 | we build sunny soils this way is and more P and boots. This |
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| 24:20 | especially this is the way to relax greater. This particular case study is |
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| 24:31 | uh yeah paper about it. Clinton a course sandy beach off organ clearly |
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| 24:40 | storm. one of the reasons Why assumed that the sedimentary structures and waves |
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| 24:52 | by waves would be ripples the plane is because when we went offshore, |
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| 24:59 | what we saw. But we only off shore of this fair weather conditions |
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| 25:06 | find green beaches. So so our studies supported the laboratory cities well, |
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| 25:14 | was actually one of the original And so he spent a lot of |
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| 25:18 | living underwater. And so he and crew with USgs when scuba diving in |
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| 25:26 | conditions and what they felt was you some way to teach about here. |
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| 25:36 | . And had been some we Uh . Yeah. Something By the time |
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| 25:43 | got in here they got what they the bedrooms for what we know now |
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| 25:48 | three d. to two and Mhm. So they live from |
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| 25:55 | Two dudes to play it. These cultural rather our upper plane. Oh |
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| 26:06 | within here before things really got screwed . So and we had uh going |
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| 26:15 | tiger bits to do so again. then we got its player again. |
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| 26:22 | the differentiated counter players in a plane the inter planer or the that deposits |
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| 26:29 | planter beds. That was positive. horse. The outer planner were the |
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| 26:36 | events the positive under the surf meaning breakers. So we have lower plainer |
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| 26:46 | plainer. When you think about we have inter planer out appointment. |
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| 26:52 | think about so don't don't get them . So this is the basis track |
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| 26:58 | you would get as say, oh the ripples. Really? Really? |
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| 27:12 | complex rebels in the hospital mega dudes in flatbed in french. |
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| 27:23 | Yeah. That when you get to areas show Yeah. When you get |
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| 27:36 | other areas that have finally agreed settlements lower way there, You don't get |
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| 27:42 | transition to a Great one. So is a higher energy course of brain |
|
| 27:49 | make this trip. Yeah. So here are symmetrical below. Is your |
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| 28:04 | on what for something. Yeah. a larger influence. And then seven |
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| 28:16 | ? This is is a storm followed a lower energy costs. Despite in |
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| 28:26 | they were in highways anywhere during the store, The biggest transported seven when |
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| 28:37 | get into the loony bin, therefore larger scale four sets. Yeah. |
|
| 28:46 | this is what we looked like. actually looked at this for it. |
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| 28:52 | they notice the breakpoint? Mhm. this may have to do in part |
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| 29:01 | changes in velocity is excluded. Not they have to build changes and suspend |
|
| 29:11 | when we get into the outer This is three minutes and once again |
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| 29:16 | lot of other stuff for others. is just in response to these waves |
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| 29:21 | the last few days, the out plane and they look something like |
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| 29:32 | Now, once we get into the we're beginning to see, among other |
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| 29:41 | , literal transport really said parallel to shore. Either in the surf. |
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| 29:50 | Where's from one short or in the with the beach? The combination of |
|
| 29:59 | move sediment parallels of the beach. it's not a surprise that need to |
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| 30:06 | into this inner love. So there's lot of sediments using offshore. But |
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| 30:13 | also a lot of settlement, we've offshore moving because of rip currents, |
|
| 30:20 | will get long term living because of actual crops. So that's going to |
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| 30:24 | a zone of multiple current directions. so here we have the rip a |
|
| 30:34 | before we go from. Yeah, deeper water offshore travels, that's gonna |
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| 30:46 | the plate. But the interrupt its cross trapped. You can see the |
|
| 30:55 | three here, come on stage where are multiple then what multiple business migrating |
|
| 31:10 | road. In this case Henry longshore . They launched a recurrence in a |
|
| 31:18 | Russia. So this is the stuff you see on the beach and go |
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| 31:23 | the beach and did this would be much what we're looking. Yeah. |
|
| 31:28 | sitting up here, oops, it's to be well, England inclination, |
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| 31:39 | salts typically 2-10°, depending on weather conditions veterans. They'll be inversely graded because |
|
| 31:48 | company and that will be deposited. , we're dizzy on the foreshore cross |
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| 31:59 | of beach as a high point of burn unit gets back in the back |
|
| 32:08 | . So if you look at the of the foreshore. Actually, several |
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| 32:15 | that you have inverse rate, which catching reaction, it implications suggesting dominant |
|
| 32:29 | . And we got secret dipping beds language, we also have any |
|
| 32:35 | So what we find is that the concentration associated with the firm press. |
|
| 32:44 | more specifically, it is the associated maximum transmission. So that if you're |
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| 32:51 | at maximum transgressive shorelines, that's where look for your of course having minerals |
|
| 32:59 | economic. Yes. Resources here is implication. You see, we also |
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| 33:09 | course have anti dunes. We talked those. We talked about the stratification |
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| 33:14 | anti news. So of the any you. This is the vertical |
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| 33:22 | Oh, sandwiches set structure your shore surf. Sound possible. It might |
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| 33:33 | something like this after they did shut near shore offshore opposition offshore. My |
|
| 33:44 | experiment into the surface which offshore by rip channels all short our truck. |
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| 34:03 | . Plus that's vertical sequence that you . And of course rain, high |
|
| 34:11 | in a, You know, I she's tracked like this one. |
|
| 34:16 | Uh, end with this and take the course rains will be cut down |
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| 34:25 | maybe a little bit Here you get to three days frequent. This is |
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| 34:32 | is more typically of what we thought heart was the face. She's relationship |
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| 34:44 | forms center infrastructure in a responsible It's okay. So, I'm gonna |
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| 34:50 | gonna stop it here. Give you chance to leave uh, and we |
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| 34:54 | continue on next time you really |
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